Phalaenopsis breeding methods and conservation methods:
Phalaenopsis, also known as Phalaenopsis, Taiwan Phalaenopsis, is a genus of Orchidaceae. The scientific name of Phalaenopsis is "in the same way as the butterfly-like orchid" in Greek. It can absorb the nutrients in the air and survive. It belongs to the category of qishenglan, which is a big family among tropical orchids. Its plants are very strange, with no stems or false bulbs. Each tree grows only a few broad leaves that are as thick as a spoon, and are stacked on top of each other. The large white gas roots are exposed around the leaves, and some are attached to the outer wall of the flower pot, which is very natural and interesting.
In the Spring Festival, a long stalk of peduncle was taken from the leafhopper and then opened one by one. Each flower has 5 inches, with a lip in the middle. The flowers are bright and colorful, both pure white and yellow. Blush, also has pale purple, orange red and blue. There are many varieties with two-color or three-color, some seem to embroider the pattern of stripes, and some are like sprayed evenly colored dots, each branch flowers seven or eight, more than twelve, can enjoy six or seventy day. When all are in full bloom, it seems that a group of butterflies are flying in the air. Its elegant leisurelyness makes people feel like a picturesque and dreamlike. The family farming of Phalaenopsis is becoming more and more popular. Here is how to maintain it to make it thrive.
First, the cultivation site and temperature
Family farming of Phalaenopsis, the focus is to ensure that the temperature is above 15 ° C, preferably placed at 18 ° C. The minimum temperature should not be lower than 7 ° C. Below this temperature, the flower will wither. In a room with heating in winter, be careful not to place the flower on the heating or too close to the heating, nor to allow the warm air of the air conditioner to blow straight. In order for the orchid to receive light, it is best to place it on the window sill in the room and use a window screen to shield it. After the weather gets warmer, you can move to the outside, and pay attention to ventilation and shading to avoid continuous high temperature above 33 °C. Autumn to spring, placed in the sunlight through the glass; in the summer, placed outdoors where the sun is not directly exposed (50%-60% shading in summer).
Second, watering and humidity
The cultivated substrate is in a damp state for a long time, the roots of the Phalaenopsis will rot, the leaves will turn yellow, and the death will be severe. You should grasp the principle of seeing wetness. If the water moss is too wet for a long time after watering, the plant can be taken off and exposed to the air. After the plant is slightly dried, the plant is re-implanted into the pot. The water temperature is preferably close to room temperature. Use a humidifier to increase the humidity of the air. You can also spray a fine mist on the foliage with a sprayer, but be careful not to spray the mist onto the flowers.
Spring is the most vigorous period of growth of Langen, and it should be replenished in time. Wait until the surface of the plant is completely dry before watering, or by surface spray to water. The temperature in the spring is low, so don't let the leaves have water when you water at night. In summer, the water is not condensed on the leaves. It is easy to cause dryness in the summer, as long as the surface of the plant is dry, it is watered. The autumn is relatively dry and the plants need plenty of water, but not too much at a time. If you use a foliar spray, it is more helpful for orchids. Dry in winter, spray the whole plant. The flower buds have a large amount of water absorption during the growth period. Once the surface of the plant material such as sphagnum moss and bark is dry and white, it is necessary to fully supply water. The time for watering should be before noon.
Third, fertilization
In addition to nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, Phalaenopsis also needs other elements, so it is advisable to use nutrient-rich fertilizers, such as orchid-specific fertilizers, fish fertilizers, and compound fertilizers.
In spring, 1000 times of liquid fertilizer is applied, and no fertilizer is applied when flowering. After the flowering period, the liquid base fertilizer is only applied continuously when the plant base grows new roots, once every 7 days. After the new leaves grow in the late spring, a small amount of solid organic fertilizer mixed with oil residue and bone powder is applied. Apply 1500-2000 times of liquid fertilizer in summer, once every 7 days. Continue to apply 1000 times of liquid fertilizer in the fall, once every 7 days until the beginning of October. The slower growing varieties can continue to fertilize until the end of October, but not too late. Flower buds have appeared in winter, and it is not suitable for fertilization. It is necessary to wait until the spring or the new roots have begun to grow before fertilizing. In the 35-40 days of flowering, the fertilizer is applied with high-phosphorus and high-potassium fertilizers. If you stay in the growth period, you can't apply fertilizer.
Fourth, transplanting pots
For those orchids that have fallen in the lower leaves, have declined in growth, or have old plants, they need to be replaced. Usually change the pot once every 2-3 years. The most appropriate period of changing the basin is the end of flowering, and the new roots begin to grow from late spring to early summer.
Stop fertilizing, watering, and fresh water moss about 7 days before changing the pot. It should be soaked or disinfected after a certain period of time. After dehydration to 80% dry, it can be used for changing pots.
When changing the pot, pull out the plant intact and remove the old plant material, but do not damage the roots. Old stems and old roots should be removed. In order to make the drainage good, 1/3 of the plastic foam block can be placed at the bottom of the basin. Put the plastic foam block under the roots with water moss, spread the roots into the pots evenly, and cover them with soft water moss. Be careful not to over-tighten them. Water moss is better with 70%.
Within half a month after changing the basin, the moth orchid should be placed in a semi-shade with high temperature. It is not advisable to immediately irrigate or fertilize, but spray it once. Fungicide. After about 7 days, when the new roots start to grow, they can be perfused with low-concentration fertilizer water once, and then normalized management.
V. Pest Control
Disease prevention is a regular work, such as good ventilation in the cultivation environment, suitable plant and air humidity, and regular spraying of Bordeaux mixture, chlorothalonil, and good health to prevent disease. Fungal diseases such as gray mold, anthracnose, and chalk disease can be controlled by drugs such as methyl thiophanate, carbendazim, zinc-manganese, and anthrax. Bacterial soft rot can be controlled by pesticides such as agricultural streptomycin. Hummers, scale insects, mites, etc., can be sprayed with speed, oxidized dimethoate and other prevention and treatment. Butterfly moth larvae spray Wanling, dichlorvos, insecticidal ring and other prevention and treatment.
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